The name "Red-Tail Boa" has commonly been used by pet stores and snake aficionados to
detract the public's attention from the fact that their proper name is boa constrictor. Many people
who do not know much about snakes are fearful of all "constrictors," especially large constrictors;
Red-Tail Boa sounds much less threatening. In fact, not all boa constrictors are red-tailed. While
many boas on the market are true red-tailed Boa constrictor constrictor imported from Brazil, with
a few coming from very limited areas in Columbia, the Amazon, Guyana, and Surinam, most are
actually B. c. imperator from Columbia, with a few coming in from Mexico, Hogg Island and
countries throughout Central America. There are six other subspecies of B. constrictor from South
America which can sometimes be found in the retail and private pet trade. All of the Boa ssp. are
listed as threatened on Appendix II of the Convention on the International Trade in Endangered
Species (CITES); the Argentine Boa (B. c. occidentalis) is on Appendix I--the endangered listing.
Appendix II animals can be exported and imported with the proper permits, and can legally be
sold through the pet trade; Appendix I animals require special permits to buy, sell, trade and own.
Ranging from the high cloud forests to the dry low lands, these beautifully marked snakes are
only moderately arboreal. Frequently found near human habitation (due to the quantity of rodents
found near human habitats), Boas are primarily nocturnal or crepuscular (active at dawn and
dusk). In the extreme northern and southern portions of their range, the Boas will often go
through several weeks of inactivity to get through the periods of extreme cold or drought, a
behavior that may be observed in captivity as the weather changes throughout the year. Those
snakes living in the consistently high humid temperatures of the rain forest areas will remain
active throughout the year.

Boas devour a variety of prey in the wild - amphibians, lizards, other snakes, birds and mammals.
In captivity, they should be fed pre-killed mice, rats and, when adults, rabbits and chickens. You
can buy the rodents and rabbits at pet stores; these animals have been specially raised and are
clean, healthy and well nourished. Chickens can be purchased at hatcheries; do not feed raw
chicken pieces purchased at the grocery store - up to 80% of it may be infected with Salmonella
bacteria. Chickens from hatcheries should also be considered suspect due to the overcrowded
conditions typical of most hatcheries; check the hatchery out first before you buy. Under no
circumstances should you feed your snakes wild-caught prey items. Wild rodents and other
animals carry a variety of parasites and bacteria for which your snake has no immunity. If you
cannot afford to buy the proper food, you should not buy the snake.

That cute little 2 ounce, 14-22" hatchling laying cupped in the palm of your hand will increase its
size by up to 300% in its first year, reaching 5-6 feet during that time. The following year will add
another 3-4 feet to its length, as well as several pounds. After the second year, the growth rate
slows down significantly, but snakes do continue to grow, however slightly, during their entire
lives. The live bearing females will give birth to 10-60 young (depending upon the subspecies)
after a gestational period of 4-10 months (depending upon temperature and several other
factors). Unlike most big snakes, many female Boas do not bear young each year.

Selecting Your Boa Constrictor
Choose an animal that has clear firm skin, rounded body shape, clean vent, clear eyes, and who
actively flicks its tongue around when handled. When held, the snake should grip you gently but
firmly when moving around. It should be alert to its surroundings. All young snakes are food for
other, larger snakes, birds, lizards and mammalian predators so your hatchling may be a bit
nervous at first but should settle down quickly. Like the pythons, Boas have anal spurs. These
single claws appearing on either side of the vent are the vestigial remains of the hind legs snakes
lost during their evolution from lizard to snake millions of years ago. Males have longer spurs than
do the females. There is little difference in temperament between the two sexes. Imported Colombian B. c. imperator and B. c. constrictor are the nicest, least aggressive of all the Boas.
The other true red-tails tend to be testy and aggressive. Captive-bred Boas of all subspecies tend
to be more docile than their wild-caught counterparts.

Snake-Proof Enclosure
Select an enclosure especially designed for housing snakes, such as those with the combination
fixed screen/hinged glass top. All snakes are escape artists; Boas are especially powerful and
can easily break out of a tank sealed with a board and a couple of bricks. A good starter tank for
a hatchling is a 20-gallon tank. After the first couple of years, you will have to build your own
enclosure out of wood and glass or Plexiglas or purchase a tank made by producers of large
reptile enclosures. Be prepared - big snakes need lots of room, not the least of which is an
enclosure big enough for you to get in and clean it out!

Suitable Substrate
Use paper towels at first. These are easily and quickly removed and replaced when soiled and,
with an import, will allow you to better monitor for the presence of mites and the condition of the
feces. Once the animal is established, you can use more decorative ground cover such as
commercially prepared shredded cypress or fir bark. Pine, cedar and aspen shavings should not
be used as they can become lodged in the mouth while eating, causing respiratory and other
problems. The bark must be monitored closely and all soiled and wet portions pulled out
immediately to prevent bacteria and fungus growths. The utilitarian approach is to use
inexpensive Astroturf. Extra pieces of Astroturf can be kept in reserve and used when the soiled
piece is removed for cleaning and drying (soak in a solution of two tablespoons of household
bleach in for each gallon of water; rinse thoroughly, and dry completely before reuse).
Remember: the easier it is to clean, the faster you'll do it!

Hiding Place
A hiding place should be provided for Boas. A half-log (available at pet stores), an empty
cardboard box or upside-down opaque plastic container, both with an access doorway cut into
one end, can also be used. The plastic is easily cleaned when necessary; the box can be tossed
out when soiled and replaced with a new one. Many Boas enjoy hanging out on branches;
provide clean branches big enough to support the Boa's weight. If you use a found branch, soak
first in the bleach/water solution, then clean water to thoroughly rinse; place in cage only when
completely dry. If you use rocks and bricks to construct a cave, be sure to affix them firmly in
place. Boas are very strong, and can easily topple such a structure when moving about. When
the rocks tumble on the snake, severe injuries may result.

Temperature Gradient
The proper temperature range is essential in keeping your snake healthy. The ambient daytime
air temperature throughout the enclosure must be maintained between 82-90 F (28-32 C), with a
basking area kept at 90-95 F (32-35 C). At night, the ambient air temperature may be allowed to
drop down no lower than 78-85 F (26-30 C). Special reptile heating pads that are manufactured to
maintain a temperature about 20o higher than the air temperature may be used inside the
enclosure. There are adhesive pads that can be stuck to the underside of a glass enclosure.
Heating pads made for people, available at all drug stores, are also available; these have built-in
high-medium-low switches and can be used under a glass enclosure. You can also use
incandescent light bulbs in porcelain and metal reflector hoods to provide the additional heat
required for the basking area, or the new ceramic heating elements which can be put into regular
light sockets and radiate heat downward. All lights must be screened off to prevent the snake
from burning itself. All snakes are susceptible to thermal burns. For this same reason do not use a hot rock. Buy at least two thermometers - one to use in the overall area 1" above the enclosure
floor, and the other 1" above the floor in the basking area. Ideally, you should place a third
thermometer at near the upper basking bench or branch. Don't try to guess the temperature--you
will end up with a snake that will be too cold to eat and digest its food. Once your snake has
grown quite large, you may wish to invest in a pig blanket, a large rigid pad for which you can buy
a thermostat to better control the temperature.

No Special Lighting is Needed
You may use a full-spectrum light or low wattage incandescent bulb in the enclosure during the
day but snake, having evolved to living underground, have not need for regular full-spectrum/UV
lighting. If you do use such a light in the tank, make sure the snake cannot get into direct contact
with the light bulbs, nor burrow itself into the casing of the fluorescent hood.

Feeding
Allow your snake to acclimate for a couple of weeks to its new home. Start your hatchling off with
a single pre-killed week to 10-day old "fuzzy" rat. A smaller sized hatchling may require a small
mouse. Larger Boas may be fed larger pre-killed rats. The rule of thumb is that you can feed prey
items that are no wider than the widest part of the snake's body. While Boas will often gladly eat
prey that is actually too large for it, they will generally regurgitate the prey item one or more days
later. Not a pretty sight. If you have not had any experience force feeding a snake, you may not
want to try it yourself until you have seen someone do it. Force-feeding should be an action of
last resort, as it is very stressful for the snake--and the owner! It is very easy to overfeed captive
snakes, especially the boas and pythons, as they do not get enough opportunity to exercise and
burn calories in captivity as they do in the wild. Be judicious--your snake will get big and
impressive soon enough. Feed it enough to keep it healthy, not obese.

Provide Fresh Water
Keep a bowl of fresh water available at all times. Your snake will both drink and soak, and may
defecate, in it. Check it often and change it as needed. A warm bath in your bathtub will also be
welcomed just before your Boa is ready to shed.

Veterinary Care
Routine veterinary screening for newly acquired snakes is essential. Many of the parasites
infesting Boas and other reptiles can be transmitted to humans and other reptiles. Left untreated,
such infestations can ultimately kill your snake. When your snake first defecates, collect the feces
in a clean plastic bag, seal it, label it with the date, your name and phone number and the snake's
name, and take it and your snake to a vet who is experienced with reptiles. Ask that it be tested
for worms and protozoans, which are two different tests. If either test is positive, your Boa will be
given medication given that you can repeat later at home.

Handling Your New Snake
After giving your Boa a couple of days to settle in, begin picking it up and handling it gently. It
may move from you, and may threaten you by doing tail lashings and hissing. Be gentle but
persistent. Daily contact will begin to establish a level of trust and confidence between you and
your snake. When it is comfortable with you, you can begin taking it around the house. Don't get
over-confident! Given a chance and close proximity to seat cushions, your Boa will make a run
(well, a slither) for it, easing down between the cushions and from there, to points possibly
unknown. Always be gentle, and try to avoid sudden movements. If the snake wraps around your
arm or neck, you can unwind it by gently grasping it by the tail and unwrapping it from around
you. If you start at the head, you will find that your snake is stronger than you are, or at least,
more tenacious.

Necessities
Some things you should have on hand for general maintenance and first aid include: Nolvasan
(Chlorhexidine diacetate) for cleaning enclosures and disinfecting food and water bowls, litter
boxes, tubs and sinks etc. Betadine (povidone/iodine) for cleansing scratches and wounds. Set
aside a food storage bowl, feeding and water bowls, soaking bowl or tub, even sponges, to be
used only for your Boa.

Caresheet by Melissa Kaplan.